Getting there was a fantastic journey in and of itself. From the urban center of Marrakech to the rural mountains of Morocco, the remarkable changes in both the landscape and culture whet my appetite for the adventure yet to come. It all came to life at Kasbah du Toubkhal.

Muleteers hauled my luggage (and I learned they could also do people if needed) through the shop and café lined narrow passageways of the village of Imlil. Fifteen minutes later, like something out of a movie, at the Kasbah’s entrance, a gentleman artist dressed in traditional Moroccan and Berber garments greeted me with a National Geographic coffee table-sized book featuring a picture of him and his art. WELCOME!

Set on an outcropping of rock and Earth on the edge of Imlil, the Kasbah is a social and economic center for the local Berber Community of less than 5000 fulltime residents. Several books depict its astounding transformation from an ancient ruin to its current state, an oasis of tranquility and comfort. It feels as if the natural ingredients, renewable resources, and sustainable practices were baked into its DNA.

Using the Kasbah and trekking lodge as a home base, guides and team leaders led me through expert trekking adventures through this stunning landscape. Harsh desert, steep hills, beautiful peaks, and rich juniper forests that offer shade from the never-ending sun are a part of each day on the trails that network the mountains. The Kasbah team is made up exclusively of resident guides, chefs, muleteers, and managers whose families have lived here for generations. They know their stuff.

Each day exploring offered new challenges to my visual senses. Small collections of stacked mud homesteads form little villages that seem to cling to the steep mountain slopes. Narrow passages took me past rustic windows and doorways that offered little protection from the gaze of passing trekkers.

After a full day of activity, the Kasbah’s hammam was a welcome relief. First a shower, then steam – lots of steam. A fresh cold-water dip and final rinse. Totally refreshed and ready for dinner.

Dinner was served Berber style. Our host offered a traditional welcome hand wash and towel before sitting at the low tables. We feasted on a tajine of beef, lamb, or goat over a bed of couscous and topped with vegetables, olives, figs, and dates. There was some great bread too. Locally known as Khobz, they are whole grain and white flour flatten round bread. They were served with every meal, and they’re delicious, especially the ones with anise. We ate in both the quaint dining room and sun-drenched rooftop. There is also a glass-enclosed space with a central fireplace and a 360* view of the surrounding mountains and tons of cozy nooks to take in the mountain air.

The interior spaces blended in perfectly with the rustic style of the exterior surroundings. Children were playing in a small stream that trickles below the verandah of the family suite - space for 8 adults, a huge kitchen, dining area, and living room. There are 14 more rooms, with more or less of the same amenities. It was PERFECT.

The staff shared a few local Berber and Moroccan customs, and even helped with a few Berber and Arabic words, which I tried, but promptly mangled. No worries, the transition into mountain life is carefully and cheerfully guided by every member of the staff.